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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. However, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” states a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.